Baltimore's Inner Harbor and Fells Point

Blue Goose Yacht Charter Service

The shipbuilding industry grew wildly as did wharves, warehouses, saloons, dance halls, and flop houses for the sailors. (A recent local history speculates that this "notorious hook of land" may have been the origin of the term "hooker"). So fast-growing and wealth-producing was the little township that it was promptly (1773) annexed to the new "county seat of Baltimore." In 1845, Isaac Tyson built a huge chrome plant here (just demolished within the past two years) and controlled the world chrome market for a time. Chases Wharf, Jacksons Wharf, Browns Wharf, and Hendersons Wharf conducted a thriving tobacco, flour, and coffee trade through the 1800's, linking with the Pennsylvania and B and O railroads to provide access to the entire country. Hendersons Wharf, an upscale apartment building now, still carries the legend - worked in white on its dark brick side - "B and 0 Warehouse." Canneries especially for fish and other seafood, thrived here, too; and some of these buildings are just coming down - and of course being renovated as well; some small and older, some new and quite large. Prices tend to be upscale, but services are extensive, and on site or nearby restaurants are excellent.

You will almost surely notice from the water a large, cream-colored older building with a huge lighted sign proclaiming it to be the "City Pier." This former recreation pier, catering to excursion boats, is currently home base and "pretend" precinct house for the TV series "Homicide: Life on the Street." Moored against and adjacent to its pier are a fleet of Moran and McAllister tugs and a touring sailboat, Nighthawk. Public dockage (without facilities) is available here, too, on short-term basis.

Ashore, Fells Point is vaunted for its history and its quaintness, and many tourists visit annually. The first week of October, each year, marks Fells Point Fall Festival Days; and the streets are lined with kiosks, booths, and tables - and thousands of visitors. Christmas and Halloween also present opportunities for special festivities. Most of the buildings in this townlet are renovated originaIs, and every where you look there is something to see and enjoy.

Fronting the dock, is Thames Street, lined with I8th and 19th century buildings now housing restaurants, pubs, and unusual or trendy shops. Pub/restaurant names seem to vie for hilarity - our favorites are The Admiral FeIl Inn (say it aloud if it doesn't immediately hit you) and "The Horse You Rode In On." And, of course, you'll want to eat "Bertha's Mussels" and maybe get a bumper sticker to prove you have done so. Or seek out the visually exotic Greek restaurant shaped and decorated just like the side of a boat (you may have seen this one from the water).

Unless you are a historian, however, you won't want to take Fells Point too seriously. It's a place to let down your hair and have a blast. Most of the time, this quaint and charming village seems to be chuckling at itself - and it invites you to join in the fun!

As you pass the marinas, you will see to your right Baltimore's band-shell-type amphitheater where five performances (mostly pop stars, old and new) are offered in season. Next, you will see the imposing two buildings of the National Aquarium at Baltimore. The original peak-topped building was constructed in the early 80's, the smaller red-and-gray theater building a decade later. All types of fish and sea animals, except whales, are displayed here in a breathtaking array; and dolphin shows are scheduled several times each day in the amphitheater. The prices are a little steep, we think, but Friday evening "bargains" are often available.

Just behind the Aquarium is the CoIumbus Center, a maritime museum and aquatic research facility and newest of the major buildings in the Harbor. Its unusual design reminds us of three capsized sailboats (albeit very large ones), but you'll have to decide about that for yourselves. On the water, just in front of the Aquarium, is the submarine Torsk, the last US sub to leave the Pacific after World War II. Tours are scheduled daily.

In the bend, still to your right, is a small mooring basin and an area for the paddle boats rented to the public on nice afternoons. Watch out for them - their "skippers" are almost always landlubbers! Beyond them is the Chesapeake, a lightship, and the same tour ticket you purchased for the Torsk will get you aboard the Chesapeake, as well. The lightship, alas, is currently filling the berth of the frigate Constellation sister ship to the Constitution. The Constellation is in dry dock undergoing repairs reputed to cost $9 million and take two years. Shoreward here is Baltimore's World Trade Center, patterned after the one in New York but only one building. Panoramic views can be seen from its top story.

Looking to your port, for awhile you will notice a sizable hill overlooking the Harbor, topped by cannon and a large flag. This is Federal Hill, mentioned in Capt. John Smith's notes as a "large lump of red clay" and called "Bolus" by him, after a similar European type of clay. In 1788, this was the site for a parade, picnic, and fireworks to celebrate Maryland's ratification of the Federal Constitution; and it has been called Federal Hill ever since. From 1797-1902, the Hill was topped by an observation tower to watch for approaching ships - friendly or otherwise. Despite periodic, and so far unsuccessful, attempts to utilize this space for other purposes, it remains a small park with some slight patriotic meaning and a lot of sentiment.

Fronting Federal Hill lies Rasch Field, named for a local philanthropist and including a playing field, a carousel, and an ice skating rink. A variety of annual and special events are staged here - and elsewhere in the Harbor area - and include shows, fairs, a hot air balloon race, parades, and running events.

At the corner, still to your port, is the Maryland Academy of Sciences. This multifaceted facility features the huge IMax Theater, a planetarium, and a host of exhibits (changed frequently) which permit children and adults to touch, smell, and otherwise experiment for themselves. IMax shows have included everything from Africa: The Serenghetti to Outer Space to the Great Barrier Reef to HollywoodÕs Special Effects - all in much larger-than-life size. Directly ahead of you, now, are the Harbor's "finger piers" - a public dock, with reasonable rates and both water and electricity - right at the heart of the action. (This is where you will likely find us when you come to visit.) The Pride of Baltimore II, Baltimore's sailing ship/goodwill ambassador, moors at the northernmost of the finger piers when she is in town. (The early Pride was lost in a storm near Puerto Rico in May of 1986, and a memorial for her and four lost crew members can be found in Rasch Field.

Docking is also available at other spots around the Harbor's perimeter and in some of the little inlets on the north side; some of these spots have facilities and some do not. You are generally OK if your selected spot does not say "No Docking." Report to the Dockmaster's Building just opposite the finger piers or, most likely, someone will come to you to collect.

Also facing you at this point are the two Pavilions, the mercantile heart of the Harbor. Built by the Rouse Company in 1952, and patterned after the antique Faneiul Hall in Boston, these structures have now been mimicked up and down the East Coast. The Light Street Pavilion (they are at the intersection of Pratt and Light Streets), features restaurants, food stands, and a few small kiosks of Baltimore or Maryland memorabilia or unusual items. The Pratt Street Pavilion houses a variety of boutiques and specialty shops as well as several additional restaurants. Renovations currently underway promise even more goodies in the near future.

Fronting the pavilions and extending from the Aquarium to the Science Center and beyond is a broad brick promenade, and the passing parade of visitors is always a large part of the appeal here.

On the water, just in front of the Light Street Pavilion, you will likely see two large and similar tour boats. Often referred to as "the Ladies," these are the Bay Lady and the Lady Baltimore. Tours are also offered by the Clipper City - a Clipper ship look-alike and, in season, by a skipjack and a bugeye as well as by the Guardian fleet, based on the Constellation's dock. If a busmanÕs holiday is your thing, you will find no lack of tours. If you just want to get from place to place, however, the Harbor abounds in Water Taxis which will take you to any of the points of interest or to Fells Point or Little Italy, as well. Also in the area, just waterside of the Light Street Pavilion, you may often find a "Visiting Ship of Note." These have included US Naval ships of many kinds (a minesweeper was especially popular), antique sailing vessels, or ships from foreign ports. Open House is generally scheduled, providing you with a chance to explore the ship and chat with the crew.

A block away from the Harbor and you are in Baltimore's downtown area. The Convention Center, Civic Center, and Camden Yards/Oriole Park are all within a few blocks' walk, as are the Gallery (a four-story shopping center), Cross Street Market, and a wide variety of city shops, restaurants, and other attractions. Horse and carriage rides will give the scenic view, and taxis, readily availble at a hotel stand between the two pavilions, can take you where you want or need to go. And if l don't stop now, I'll have you in Westminster!