Current Topic - Taking on Water
Charts and Depth
Best Anchoring Techniques
BLUE GOOSE ANCHORING GUIDELINES
Please feel free to join in the discussion with an e-mail. Neither your name nor e-mail address will be used by us for any purpose, unless you tell us otherwise. Further, we will not make your name or address available to anyone else. When we receive your input, we will assume that you have given us permission to reprint your opinion. Only your initials and home port need be included with your response, e.g. A.L./Baltimore, MD. Your full name can be included if you wish. The following pertain for the present and, hopefully, we will not have to make up a lot of rules:
Essays should not exceed
500 words.
Mother Goose will monitor
and guide the discussion.
Current
Topic: List in priority order what you should do if you find that you are taking
on a lot of water while operating your trawler in the Upper Chesapeake Bay.
A current copy of "Chapman Piloting" by Elbert S. Maloney will be awarded for the best entry.
Previous Topic: Under what circumstance(s) should you NOT depend on
your charts when exploring the Chesapeake Bay and her tributaries?
The following winning entry was submitted by one of our successful trawler school graduates and is, indeed, the answer for which Mother Goose had long been waiting. John will receive the copy of "Chapman's". "Way to go, John! Thanks for paying attention!"
Mother Goose, As a recent student, I feel that the answer must lie in one of the many topics covered in our training. Since the charts show hard information, such as shorelines and distances, the answer must lie within the variable of the chart. The variable would be water depth. Since water depth is measured on a chart as mean (actually mean mean) low water, the one variable that comes to mind is this. If the wind has been blowing for over 24 hours from a WNW or Northerly direction, the water will have been pushed out of the bay and into the ocean, thus reducing the depth of water as indicated on the chart. Of course the second answer is, if Mother Goose says not to rely on the d--m chart, then that's good enough for us!! (Some mariners refer to this as "wind tide".)
Previous Topic: What are the best anchoring techniques for the Chesapeake Bay?
Let's restrict this discussion to recreational vessels between 27 and 44 feet. Of course, the type and weight of the anchor, displacement and type of vessel, diameter and type of anchor rode, type of holding ground, and scope, can and should be considered in your response. We are particularly interested in the type of anchor. Needless to say, Mother Goose is thinking trawlers, but any experience would be valuable and appreciated with regard to this topic.
You may send my copy of "Chapman Piloting" to Pt. Pleasant
Beach, N.J.
All the best, C.M.
And from Mother Goose's #3 Daughter,
Mother to three of Mother Goose's grandsons,
Non-boater, trying to be amusing....
To: Mother Goose
Anchors Away [sic]A big one! A very very big one, so that when you wake up in the
morning, you are where you were when you went to sleep.
A case of Rolling Rock should do the trick, OK, maybe two cases packed into a big cooler,
then if you want to drift a little, just pull it up and drink a few, then back down it
goes. The empty bottles are handy for throwing at any boats (she must mean sail
boats) that get too close during the night. They should get the hint.
And from Mother Goose ..... It turns out that the Summer 1999 Issue of
PassageMaker Magazine had a good article on anchoring, starting on page 64. One might review
this prior to submitting his or her award winning essay. The PassageMaker article does not
address all aspects of anchoring in the Chesapeake Bay. In other words, contributors still
have an opportunity to further enlighten all of us on the specifics associated with the
topic, "What are the best anchoring techniques for the Chesapeake Bay?"
Review chapter on "Anchoring" in "Chapman Piloting".
Make sure that your charts are current.
Obtain local knowledge whenever possible.
See if intended anchorage is covered in the Chesapeake Bay Magazine's "Guide to Cruising Chesapeake Bay".
Test your depth finder and determine if it is reading from
the transducer or
what? Lower a line with a weight on it to determine the actual water depth.
Compare. Yes, this is important!
Ensure that everything you are using in conjunction with anchoring is in "feet".
Remember that the real key is to determine how much water you have between the bottom of the boat (not the waterline) and the bottom of the Bay.
Check that your ground tackle is seaworthy. Inspect it before you leave port.
See to it that the shackle between the anchor and the rode is wire tied.
Use an anchor and rode rated for the length and displacement of your boat. Check out the West Marine Master Catalog for openers.
Pick a good anchor for the Bay. Mother Goose likes the CQR. Second preference is a Danforth. Ask around if you have to buy one. Anchor choice is a very interesting discussion in itself.
Use at least a seven to one ratio or scope for length of anchor rode or line to water depth. When in doubt use a larger ratio, i.e. eight to one, ten to one, etc. Technically, one should measure from the stowed anchor to the water's bottom to determine proper scope. On the other hand, the additional height of the anchor off the water is often offset by the weight of the anchor and the length and weight of any chain attached to the anchor.
Enter anchorage very, very slowly, just in case you were to touch bottom.
Choose a good depth. Ten to fifteen feet seems ideal. Mother Goose likes ten feet because it makes the scope math easy, i.e. seventy feet of rode.
Have your anchor rode marked every so many feet. Kits are available from your local marine supplier.
Reconnoiter a full 360 degrees around the intended anchoring position to ensure proper depth in all directions, regardless of swing.
Recheck chart not only for depth but for bottom type. You do not want to anchor in a rocky bottom, if possible. Typically you will find mud, sand, clay or some combo thereof on the Chesapeake.
Clearly determine that your trawler, once anchored, will not interfere with any nearby vessel already at anchor, or her ground tackle.
Pick your spot.
Do not turn off your main engine(s).
Pull the proper length of rode from the chain locker and fasten it to the samson post, bitt or cleat at the proper distance from the anchor. Do this prior to dropping the anchor. This procedure is a Mother Goose preference.
Point your bow into the wind, if there is any. Use your burgee as a telltale.
Gently lower the anchor to the bottom and allow your trawler to drift back with the wind as the anchor rode slowly pays out. Control effect of strong wind, as necessary, with requisite forward throttle.
Keep your feet clear of rode.
If there is no wind, then gently shift into and out of reverse, as necessary, at idle speed, being careful not to wrap the prop with the rode.
When rode becomes taught, give the rode a good tug to determine if anchor is holding. If it doesn't seem to be holding, let out a little more rode and resecure it.
If the anchor does not hold, you will have to retrieve the anchor and try again, maybe in a slightly different spot.
If this happens, blame the First Mate.
Once it appears that the anchor has, indeed, held, place shift lever in reverse, at idle, to make sure anchor is not dragging. Make observations. Anchor should now be set.
Double check your potential swing to ensure your vessel will not interfere with another in the same anchorage.
Look again to ensure that the rode is properly fastened to your trawler.
Recheck your depth finder reading(s). If you have more than one depth finder, don't operate them together or you might get anomalous readings if they are both using the same frequency.
Secure main engine(s).
Adjust your electric breaker panel settings, as necessary.
Visually check the engine room.
Hoist the "No Sailboat" flag and light off the generator.
Have a Cold One!
.gif)
